How To Change The Clutch Cylider On A 1996 Ford F250
ZF v Speed Slave Cylinder Bleeding Guide
ZF S5-42, S5-47 Chief & Slave Cylinder Replacement, Clutch System Bleeding Procedures
Applicable Models:
1987 - 1997 Ford F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty
Applicable Engine(south):
7.3L IDI V-viii diesel (naturally aspirated & turbocharged variants)
vii.3L Power Stroke V-8 diesel (7.3L DIT)
Ford 7.5L Five-8 gas (460 CID)
Applicable Transmission(s):
ZF S5-42 & S5-47 five speed transmission
Replacing the primary and/or slave cylinder on a ZF five speed organization is not a big task on 1987 to 1997 Ford diesel fuel pickups. The diesel variation of the manual, unlike their gasoline counterparts, use an external slave cylinder which is easily attainable and does not require removal of the transmission. Bleeding the hydraulic organization, however, can exist extremely tedious and labor intensive.
ZF five Speed Clutch Master and Slave Cylinder Part Numbers
| Part Description | Part Number(s) | Remarks/Notes |
| Clutch master cylinder (1987-1992 models) | Ford E8TZ-7A543-C | [1] |
| Clutch primary cylinder (1993 - 1997 models) | Ford F3TZ-7A543-A | |
| Clutch slave cylinder (all models) | Ford E3TZ-7A564-A | |
| Main-slave hydraulic hose (all models) | Ford F5TZ-7A512-A | |
| Master-slave hydraulic fluid | Ford PM-1-C | [2] |
[one] Master and slave cylinders tin also be purchased as assemblies that include a new hose.
[2] Whatsoever DOT three brake fluid volition suffice; Ford role number provided.
ZF 5 Speed Hydraulic Clutch Organisation Bleeding Procedures
If you lot have not already performed the Heim Articulation Mod for 1988 - 1997 Ford trucks, we highly recommend you lot consider the upgrade. It completely removes and eliminates the problematic plastic bushing found in the eye of the clutch master cylinder pushrod. This is a permanent, maintenance gratis fix for an extremely mutual problem associated with the ZF 5 speed manual transmission.
The post-obit procedures outline the replacement and bleeding processes with the master cylinder and slave cylinder installed on the vehicle - for information on demote bleeding, see sub-topic "Demote Bleed Procedures" near bottom of folio.
Important notation - at no time should the principal cylinder be operated until the slave cylinder is installed at the clutch fork. If the master cylinder is operated without the slave cylinder installed on the transmission it may be damaged.
Click any thumbnail image to view fullsize - fullsize images comprise important details when applicable.
• Familiarize yourself with the components of the slave cylinder.
Hydraulic port: The hydraulic line attaches to the slave cylinder here by means of a pocket-sized roll pivot that is supplied with the office. A rubber o-ring type gasket is installed on the hydraulic line prior to installation.
Drain spiral: The drain spiral, located at the meridian of the cylinder on the side opposite the pushrod, uses a 5/32" Allen wrench.
Slave cylinder retentiveness clip: This is a spring steel clip that holds the slave cylinder confronting the transmission. It is a very hard metal and the clip tin can be broke hands if pried on with also much force.
Slave cylinder pushrod strap: Practise non lose or break this strap until the slave cylinder is installed! Without it, installation of the slave cylinder is extremely hard. Later installation, the plastic clip acts equally a friction barrier betwixt the metal pushrod and clutch fork.
Clutch Master Cylinder Removal
• If applicable, disconnect the electrical connector from the clutch pedal interlock switch that is attached to the master cylinder pushrod.
• Remove the center of the pushrod from the clutch pedal swing arm pin using a screwdriver or similar tool to pry information technology off.
• Remove the ii nuts securing the clutch main cylinder to the firewall with a 13mm socket. For 1987 to 1991 model years, the basics volition be attainable from within the cab. For 1992 to 1997 model years, the basics will be accessible from the engine bay.
Note - on 92 to 97 model years, it may exist easier to access the clutch principal cylinder by commencement removing the department of intake tubing between the turbocharger inlet and air cleaner box.
• Trace the hydraulic line between the clutch master and slave cylinders. Disconnect any clips that secure the hydraulic line to the firewall, frame, or body so that information technology can be completely removed from the vehicle.
• Pull the chief cylinder out from the firewall and permit it hang loosely for the time existence.
Clutch Slave Cylinder Removal
• The clutch slave cylinder is attached to the driver'due south side of the transmission via a metal clip.
• Remove the clutch slave cylinder by get-go releasing the prune on the backside, then pull/pry the cylinder off the mount (see fullsize image for details).
• Place a container beneath the slave cylinder to catch fluid.
• With the clutch slave cylinder removed from the manual, press out the ringlet pin to dissever the cylinder from the hydraulic line.
• Allow the hydraulic line to drain, then remove the clutch master cylinder and hydraulic line through the engine compartment.
• Disconnect the hydraulic line from the clutch chief cylinder by driving out the roll pin.
Clutch Master & Slave Installation
• With all the components removed from the vehicle, identify the clutch master cylinder side of the hydraulic line. Early on trucks used a plastic line, while after trucks will have a metallic line with a flexible braided department at one end. On plastic lines, the principal cylinder side has a abrupt "U" bend in it and a 180° plumbing fixtures at the primary cylinder stop. On metal lines, the braided department is for the slave cylinder while the contrary end is designed for the primary. The fittings are the same size on both ends and require the same gasket/gyre pin. Do not re-use old gaskets and roll pins.
• Lightly grease and install the gasket on the hydraulic line, then install the line into the clutch master cylinder, securing it with the supplied 3/32" whorl pin.
• Reinstall the master cylinder through the firewall, secure the nuts with a 13mm socket, and route the hydraulic line to the transmission.
• Tape or zip tie the hydraulic hose to the front driveshaft (4x4) or frame (4x2) with the fitting facing downwards. Identify a container under the hydraulic line fitting.
• Gravity drain the hydraulic line - Fill the master cylinder with fluid and let information technology to bleed out the reverse terminate of the hydraulic line. Continue to proceed the fluid reservoir full until fluid, but non air, runs out the cease of the hydraulic line and then cap it off. The supplied cap or a minor vacuum cap works well. This is much easier with two people.
• From underneath the truck, install the slave cylinder. Lightly grease the gasket, install the gasket to the hydraulic line fitting, insert the hydraulic line into the port on the slave cylinder, and finally install the whorl pin.
At this time, DO NOT operate the primary cylinder or harm to the slave cylinder may occur!
• Carefully remove the plastic retaining clip from the cylinder after first depressing the pushrod. Exercise not interruption the plastic clip.
• Refill the clutch master cylinder fluid reservoir.
• From beneath the truck manually depress the slave cylinder piston completely with your hand, then release and allow it to extend on its own. Repeat this process while a 2d person maintains the fluid level in the clutch fluid reservoir. Practise not allow the reservoir run out of fluid or air will be re-introduced into the arrangement.
• Repeat the pumping procedure until it becomes difficult to depress the slave cylinder manually.
• Reinstall the slave cylinder pushrod retaining clip. This volition be difficult since the slave cylinder becomes tough to depress in one case the cylinder is full of fluid. We accomplish this by installing the prune onto the tip of the pushrod, placing the pushrod into a hole/indentation of the frame, and applying force against information technology with one hand until the prune can be re-secured to the mounting subclass with our costless manus.
• With the pushrod cylinder retracted and the retaining strap installed, install the slave cylinder back onto the transmission.
Tip - For near people, this is difficult the offset fourth dimension. Try sliding the slave cylinder into the mountain on the transmission, then employ a pry bar to further retract the pushrod and slide information technology into the clutch fork indentation. If done correctly, the slave cylinder will pop into place and the plastic retaining strap will be released.
Make sure the slave cylinder is correctly installed before proceeding.
• Reinstall the clutch master cylinder pushrod to the clutch swing arm under the dash.
ZF Clutch Master & Slave Haemorrhage Procedures
• Double check that the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder are correctly installed. Verify that there are no leaks in the hydraulic line, and that the clutch fluid reservoir is filled to the fill line.
• Identify a 5/32" Allen wrench into the drain screw. Without opening the bleed spiral, verify that the wrench is installed with sufficient room to open up/close the bleeder. The bleed spiral is opened by turning counterclockwise and closed by turning clockwise. However, if you're laying on your back underneath the transmission, the rotations are opposite.
• During the bleeding process, fluid is going to be ejected from the bleed spiral and will make an oily mess if yous do not showtime identify a rag over the bleeder orifice.
• With the fluid reservoir cap/bladder installed and the drain screw closed, depress the clutch pedal. Clutch functioning should experience spongy and the clutch fork should move little, if at all - this is because air is trapped in the system.
Standard Bleed Procedures:
• Have 1 person depress the clutch pedal until it bottoms upward. Once the clutch pedal has been fully depressed, a second person opens the drain valve for two-3 seconds, then closes it. Once the bleed screw is airtight, allow the clutch pedal to render to the upwards position.
• Repeat the process, checking the clutch fluid reservoir level later every drain wheel. Practise not permit the fluid reservoir to drain completely. Do not allow the pedal to return to the upwards (non-depressed) position while the bleed valve is open - the system will accept in air.
Culling Bleed Procedures (for stubborn systems):
Occasionally, a stubborn system does not completely drain with the standard procedures. Nosotros've identified the cause of this to be in the fact that a small amount of air can become trapped and/or sucked into the system when the pedal is held in the depressed position with the bleed screw open. The following method is slightly different and requires proper timing between the pedal and bleed screw operators.
• One person slowly depresses and holds the clutch pedal downwards. We do this on a three second basis. When the operator begins to depress the clutch pedal, he audibly counts "i". When the clutch pedal reaches the middle position, he counts "2". And when the clutch pedal is fully depressed, he counts "3". Exist sure that the person below the truck can hear the counts.
• When the person operating the drain screw hears "1", he cracks open the bleed screw. Presently after he hears "2", he closes the bleed screw. When he hears "3", the drain screw needs to be closed. At "3", as a safety mensurate, the clutch pedal operator holds the clutch in the fully depressed position until the 2d person confirms the bleed screw is airtight. When information technology is confirmed that the bleed screw is closed, let the pedal to return to its original position.
Note - the goal is to time it such that the bleed screw is closed just earlier the clutch pedal reaches total depression. If the bleed screw remains open at total depression, the arrangement may commencement to suck in air as information technology loses pressure; this seems to be why the standard method does not always work.
• Repeat the process until the clutch pedal experience is firm and no air escapes when the bleed screw is cracked. After every other cycle, check and superlative off the clutch fluid level. Ever be sure to supplant the reservoir cap/float before operating the clutch pedal. If the fluid level becomes empty, the chief cylinder will push air through the system and the procedure volition demand to exist repeated.
With either procedure (or combination of the two), it typically takes us 10 to 15 cycles to fully drain the organisation. It may accept significantly more than or significantly less cycles to completely bleed the arrangement as there are many variables at play. Once you recollect the organization is bled, drive the truck and check for smooth engagements in all gears. If there is grinding, the clutch pedal does not render to its top position, or engagements are tight, there is likely still air in the organization. Repeat these procedures until the clutch functions unremarkably.
Clutch Chief and Slave Bench Bleeding Procedures
If you accept both the master and slave cylinder removed from the vehicle, an culling approach is to bench bleed the system. If y'all are bleeding a system on your ain, this is the only viable method. If washed properly, you will non have to perform any bleeding procedures with the primary/slave cylinders installed on the vehicle.
• With the hose installed and properly secured between the primary and slave cylinders, carefully fix the master cylinder upright in a vice.
Note - at no time during the bench bleeding process should you actuate the master cylinder pushrod; damage to the slave cylinder may occur.
• Fill the fluid reservoir on the master cylinder to the fill line, leaving the cap and bladder off. Identify the slave cylinder in/over an oil catch tin at an elevation lower than the master cylinder (and then gravity will force fluid to period from the master to the slave cylinder).
• Open up the drain screw on the slave cylinder and monitor the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. Do not permit the reservoir fluid level to completely drain.
• One time a steady stream of fluid (no air) begins to run out of the bleed screw orifice on the slave cylinder, completely close the bleed screw on the slave cylinder.
• Completely fill the fluid reservoir on the master cylinder, then release the plastic slave cylinder pushrod retaining strap without damaging it. As the slave cylinder pushrod extends, it will describe fluid from the main cylinder reservoir.
• Once the slave cylinder has fully extended, manually activate the slave cylinder pushrod by pushing it in until information technology is fully retracted, then assuasive it to leap back to its extended position. Echo this process while maintaining the fluid level in the principal cylinder reservoir until all of the air is purged out of the arrangement. Information technology should become increasingly difficult to operate the slave cylinder piston as the air is removed. Bubbles in the fluid reservoir bespeak air being forced out of the arrangement.
Note - you may wish to cover the fluid reservoir with a rag to preclude oil from spilling equally y'all are manually actuating the slave cylinder piston.
• Once the arrangement has been bled, manually retract the slave cylinder pushrod and reinstall the plastic retaining strap. Add/remove fluid from the main cylinder reservoir and then that the level is at the max fill up line, so install the float and cap.
• Install the chief cylinder and slave cylinder per the aforementioned procedures.
Source: https://www.dieselhub.com/maintenance/zf-master-slave.html
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